[Jewelry making - Article 00106] - [Orchid] EFB Gravers and Gravers in General (Long)

[Jewelryartschool]

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    (From Orchid post by Joe Bloyd 19/29/02) 

	1. Experience with EFB Gravers
	2. Which gravers could you not do without?
	3. My qualifications to spout off on the subjects

    Let's begin with an explanation of what EFB gravers are, for those
    who aren't familiar with them. They are a set of six, long, turned,
    wooden handles accompanied by six assorted gravers, all packaged
    into a wooden case about 8"x 8" square, and  1 C2BD" deep. The
    gravers and handles are made to fit together, and adjust for length
    by using patented system of step teeth to hold the graver, and a
    tapered sliding collar to lock everything into position. 

    I was given my set by my mentor and teacher Victor Vasquez in San
    Jose, California - around 1974. Mine are made of rosewood, finely
    turned and finished. On the metal ferrule (which appears to be
    silver plated), it says: 

    "Guaranteed, Ezra F. Bowman & Co., Lancaster, PA., Pat. Mar. 12,
    1889." On the graver in this particular handle it says: "Lancaster,
    Trade Mark, Reg. U.S. Pat. Off." on one side. The other side says:
    Guaranteed, E.F.B., Pat. June 3, 1890 

    This may very well mean that the tool I am holding in my hand is over
    100 years old 

    These tools are still shown in a couple of the jewelry catalogs. Frei
    & Borel shows them as part # 136.100, with a price of $91.70 for the
    boxed set of 6. 

    They also show individual replacement gravers  AT  $9.00 each. I have
    seen these sets, and there are some differences between the modern
    day version, and the one I described to you above. The new ones are
    made of some other wood, not as finely turned or finished, and not as
    well fitted. The teeth and the groove for the graver is a bit sloppy,
    even when the ferrule is pulled down tight. There is none of the
    information on Ezra F. Bowman Co. or Lancaster, PA anywhere on these
    new versions. I have also not seen the double bent, right and left
    hand, inside ring gravers, nor the single bent "spoon" gravers made
    to fit these handles for many, many years. 

    I personally, never really liked the way that these EFB gravers felt
    in my hand over long periods of time, so over the years I changed out
    the original gravers that came in my set - for three sets of double
    bent, inside ring gravers, right and lefts of each. Even these are
    seldom used much anymore, as I charge $75.00 to hand engrave a dozen
    characters inside a ring. Most clients opt for pantographed
    inscriptions at one third the price - same day service - McDonalds
    mentality. and quality. 

    Your question on "favorite" gravers is gonna be hard to answer. My
    favorite graver (or 10) at any given time are those that do the job
    properly. I would guess that there are roughly 400 gravers in, on top
    of, or under my engraving bench. 

    There are gravers for platinum, gravers for hardened steel, gravers
    made to get to any conceivable angle, gravers altered to get into
    tight spaces, gravers for spoon bowls, gravers for made for inlaying
    metals, gravers for setting all kinds of gemstones, and the gravers
    made for that one specific job that I've long since forgotten:) 

    Your first consideration is going be the metal that the graver blank
    is made from. This will determine what metals you can cut with the
    tool. Beginning with carbon steel, to high speed steel, "Glensteel"
    from GRS Corp., MoMax Cobalt, to Steve Lindsay's new cobalt/carbide
    alloy called "Carbalt", and solid carbide blanks sold by "Ngraver".
    Carbide is the hardest of these materials, but it is also a bit
    brittle, and tends to chip or break in tight turns. I have some
    carbide gravers used only for platinum, that are ten years old, and
    have yet to be resharpened. As long as they never get up against a
    corundum or diamond, or rub against each other - they may very well
    last forever! Any of these metal blanks are suitable for precious
    metal engraving , some need less sharpening, some take a higher
    polish, carbide sheds the gumm y platinum residue that coats other
    gravers. If you are engraving exotic metals, titanium, niobium,
    stainless steels, hardened tool steels, "art' knives, or firearms
    you'll get bet better all around results from the MoMax on up to the
    carbide. 

    If I had to choose just ONE graver - Hands down - it would be a
    modified "square" graver made of Steve Lindsay's new "Carbalt" alloy.
    77Rc hardness! With this one graver I can cut a complete platinum
    ring - borders, leaves, and veins - a complete intricate monogram -
    an entire "art" knife - or a piece of hardened steel, as found in a
    rifle receiver. This graver could be mounted in a long half head
    wooden mushroom handle, or one of the GRS anodized aluminum handles
    with set screws. (Better yet, in one of my new "Ultimate" Air Gravers
    by Lindsay!:) You would have to make some alterations to get an EFB
    handle to hold it properly, but it could be done, 

    If I got to add a few, I'd add a couple of flats, and an onglette -
    all ground out of Lindsay's "Carbalt" blanks. 

    Then if I got to have a few more, I'd add some more "Carbalt"
    gravers shaped for stone setting, and a couple of carbon steel, lined
    gravers to shade letters and scenery. From there you add what you
    need or want to build your own collection of 400 or so The problem
    with my "favorite" choice is that "Carbalt" - requires a diamond
    sharpening system capable of precise angles, facets, and a 50 to
    100,000 mesh final diamond polish. Those of you who do not intend to
    invest a lot of money (minimum $500) into a sharpening system can
    certainly get by with carbon or high speed steel gravers on all
    precious metals. These can be sharpened with whetstones and a
    "Crocker" style sharpeing holder/jig available from Frie & Borel,
    Gesswein, or Stuller. They'll give almost as good a result as I get
    with the "Carbalt" - you'll just spend a bit more time re-sharpening
    them - which is fine for the occasional engraver. 

    (There are so many considerations in just shaping and sharpening
    gravers that I've begun a booklet that will be available in January
    that will cover this subject in excruciating detail.) 

    My "qualifications": 30 + years hand engraving to date. I have been
    teaching for 6 years. From 1976 to 1986 I owned a shop in which 95%
    of the products were ornamentally engraved by hand. When I was a
    puppy I'd engrave anything car, motorcycle, and bicycle parts -
    bathtub and sink hardware - tiaras and crowns for beauty queens -
    headpieces for circus elephants - arm bracelets for exotic dancers -
    Hollywood photograph frames - most anything anyone would suggest.
    After some years of this, I learned that I no longer needed to prove
    that I could do these things, but I did need to start engraving
    items that made more money with less frustration Nowadays, I engrave
    my own line of platinum and 18K jewelry, some sterling men's
    accessories, bits and spurs for horsemen, "art" knives, and a few
    firearms. I also love doing cold metal inlays, cut in with gravers
    and hammered to anchor them in place. 

    This is probably more than anyone wanted to know but I was bored to
    night. Standard disclaimer goes here I will be offering my Basic, to
    Platinum Engraving Workshops in the Spring of 2003 at our new
    location. Email me off the forum if you'd like to be put on the list
    to be notified of the particulars 

Brian P. Marshall
Stockton Jewelry Arts School (Re-opening Spring 2003)
2207 Lucile Ave.
Stockton, CA 95209 USA
209-477-0550 Workshops/Classrooms
jewelryartschool AT aol.com


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