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| Re: [Orchid] Castaldo pink rubber | ||
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From: John A. Henkel Date: Sat Nov 02 20:03:06 2002 |
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========[ Invite a Friend - http://www.ganoksin.com/invite.htm ]======== Hello Guy, I have used the No-Shrink-Pink for many years now. I make a pink mold on the average of one a week. It did take some experimenting at first to get it right. I have learned a few tricks that can help. First you need to calibrate your vulcanizer, if you have not already done so. Here is the procedure for that. (it is a good idea to do this even for Gold Label and White Label rubber as well) First you need an accurate thermometer. I use a long stemmed one from my wax pot. Radio Shack sells a digital one that is quite good. I have calibrated mine with a digital one so that I know it is accurate. You'll need a small block of wood; about 3" x 4" x 3/4" to insulate the top heat platen from the bottom platen while checking each in turn. Some vulcanizers have two controls (one for each platen) others just have one. If yours has just one control, find the platen that cycles the highest and set the temp on that one. There is a light that goes out on most models when it reaches the temp set on the knob. Watch your thermometer closely and you will notice that the temp will continue to climb for a few seconds even after the light has gone out. Find the highest part of the cycle and adjust the knob accordingly. 310 F is a good starting point. I use 308 F. If your machine has two knobs repeat the process for the other platen. You can experiment with different temp settings ONLY after you can confidently calibrate for a precise temp. I find a shorter cooking time works better. I cook a 3/4" thick mold (7 pieces of rubber) for 45 mins. I also room cool the mold instead of quenching it. I cook one mold only at a time instead of using a multiple mold frame. I have better control on the results because of the different heat zones on the press surfaces (check it out with your thermometer by using the above technique and moving the probe around the surface) You will find the edges are cooler than the middle. Another thing about the pink stuff is that you'll need to change blades more frequently when cutting. I have been able to achieve about 1% shrinkage with the pink. Ring sizes don't change but keep in mind that your injection wax can shrink a lot, especially if you pull the wax pattern while it is warm and let it cool on the bench. Some injection waxes shrink more than others. I have several pots with different waxes that have properties that I can exploit to their best use. Castaldo makes a Gold injection wax with very good dimensional stability. Let your pattern cool in the mold a while before pulling. The Gold wax can be too brittle for filigree but every wax has it's tradeoffs. I hope some of this helps. John, J.A.Henkel Co., Inc. Moldmaking Casting Finishing, Producing Solutions for Jewelry Artists ____________________________________________________________________ T h e O r c h i d L i s t Open Electronic Forum for Jewelry Manufacturing Methods and Procedures ____________________________________________________________________ Orchid FAQ: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/orchid/faq.htm Orchid Archives: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/orchid/archive Orchid Galleries: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/orchid/gallery.htm Invite a Friend: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/invite.htm ____________________________________________________________________ Tips From The Jeweler's Bench - Article Archive ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/tip_sear.htm The Jeweler's Selected Bibliography List ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/jewelry-books Buy Orchid Jewelry: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/shop ____________________________________________________________________ -Unsubscribe: -Email: orchid-request AT ganoksin.com Body=unsubscribe subject=blank ____________________________________________________________________ |
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