Hi, I’ve been using crimp beads on Beadalon wire for my stringing
projects, but I’m not thrilled with the look, and a friend mentioned
others expressing concern about Beadalon’s strength in general.
How can I get a more finished look? These are unknotted projects.
Also, I’ve heard that Hoover and Strong is no longer making dead
soft sterling wire. Their produt was particularly nice and came in
big loops, as opposed to the tiny loops of other companies. Does
anyone have a recommendation for nice dead soft wire for wire
working?
Thank you,
Elaine Luther
Chicago area, Illinois, USA
Certified PMC Instructor @E_Luther
I use 49 strand beadalon and have no question about the strength, but
agree the look of crimp beads is less than desired: I’d love to know
what others suggest using.
Elaine, I am not sure if I understand you question on ending strung
beads but will try a go at an answer. I form a loop in sterling wire.
End the bead string through the loop with a crimp. Place the
sterling wire into the large end of a silver cone. Form a loop in
the end of the sterling wire where it comes through the small end of
the cone. Wrap the sterling wire around it self until the wrap
touches the small end of the cone. Hooks may be attached to the
sterling wire loop before the final wrapping. If you think this might
help but need further clarification I would be glad to send you a
sketch. Good Luck Lee
Have you tried using bead cones to cover the ends of crimps? Makes
a big difference in the look of ones jewelry creations.
If you aren’t using crimping pliers, I would suggest you to get a
pair to try out. They give the crimps a more uniform shape and
more professional look vs the flattened look one gets when using
pliers.
Helen
In the middle of a difficulty lies opportunity!!
Hello Elaine, Beadalon is quite strong - but it can be weakened. In
repairing many necklaces and bracelets (strung on tiger tail and
beadalon) that have “come apart,” I’ve observed that the cable
breaks at the crimp bead. The jewelry has not simply come apart. I
suspect the cable is weakened when the crimp bead is “chrunched”,
thereby crimping the cable as well as the bead. Another problem is
that the cable is subject to frequent bending at those two spots,
which would weaken it.
Have you tried knotting the Beadalon and concealing a length of the
extra cable by inserting it back through a couple of the beads? No
crimping at all. Treat it just like silk cord - it’s just a little
stiffer. An extra measure for security would be a drop of super
glue on the knot.
Getting the special pliers for crimp beads does lessen the
squashing that weakens the cable, but you still have to use the
crimp beads. I prefer the look of a knot to attach findings.
I get sterling wire from Indian Jewelry Supply, Stullers, and Rio.
All will supply it dead soft if you specifically ask for it.
Hope this helps and best of luck on your efforts! Judy in Kansas -
where I just did a small show to start the season, and left a large
case with display props at home! Next week, I’ll remember, you
betcha!
Judy M. Willingham, R.S.
Biological and Agricultural Engineering
237 Seaton Hall
Kansas State University
Manhattan KS 66506
(785) 532-2936
Hello Elaine! I never liked the look of a crimp bead, even when using
the crimping pliers. If I have to use the crimp bead I will place it
an inch or so from the end instead of just at the end. For instance,
I have my piece strung within 1 inch from the end. Here is where I
string on the crimp bead. Then I add the rest of the beads and then
the clasp and then loop down through the beads and the crimper and
then even a little further down, pull the wire out, cinch it up and
crimp the bead. I don’t even like the little bit of raw wire that
shows at the clasp, so if the diameter is small enough, I will put
bullion (french wire) over the stringing material to hide it and
give it a finished look. The crimp bead positioned further down the
necklace is usually not noticeable. I have cut a small silver bead
and clipped it over the crimper or sometimes choose to place it right
at the site of a bead with a larger hole so it hides inside. Not easy
to do on the other end, but I’ve made it work many times and the
results are much more pleasing than a big ratty crumped mass of base
metal at the clasp. Hope this makes sense!
Hi Elaine, No one has mentioned using bead tips, yet, so I will throw
that one out there. They look like this: http://www.sfjssantafe.com/tools/photos/18kbeadtip.jpg. You string
it on the end of the bead strand, knot it, and cut the cord close
leaving a tiny bit so the knot won’t come undone. If you are using a
heavy enough weight of Beadalon it is pretty strong. The weaker part
is the loop formed at the end of the bead tip. If I am using really
heavy beads then I will solder shut the bead tip before knotting it
on the string making a rather strong ending. While I am not 100%
happy with this method of ending beads, either, the cord is mostly
hidden and at least you are linking your finding on to a metal part
instead of string.
hey jill and all other orchidites. i use bead tips on some jlry as
well… on expensive necklaces i use tiny seed beads instead of
tying off at end of tip…usually black it pretty well
disappears…just run thru and go back and tie off at second or
third bead in piece… thanks lisa
I don’t know if it has been sugested yet but have you tried
clamshell beadtips?you anchor your thread on a size 11 bead and put a
spot of glue (hypo cement) on your knotstring on the bead tip and
close the tip to hide the anchor beadI have used these with great
success.
Dear Jill: Bead tips are what I use as well altho a little
differently. I crimp inside the cup of the bead tip, roll some
E6000 inside as well 'n close. I use Soft Flex wire 'n would find
it difficult to knot the thicker wire. Are you able to knot it?
I’ll try it if it works for you. I know bead tips have been used
for many years as I see it in vintage 'n antique jewelery.
Dear Jill: Bead tips are what I use as well altho a little
differently. I crimp inside the cup of the bead tip, roll some
E6000 inside as well 'n close. I use Soft Flex wire 'n would find
it difficult to knot the thicker wire. Are you able to knot it?
I’ll try it if it works for you. I know bead tips have been used
for many years as I see it in vintage 'n antique jewelery.
I don’t know if it has been sugested yet but have you tried
clamshell beadtips?you anchor your thread on a size 11 bead and put a
spot of glue (hypo cement) on your knotstring on the bead tip and
close the tip to hide the anchor beadI have used these with great
success.
I, too, am not happy with the look of the crimp beads by the clasp.
I’ve looked for a small bead with a big hole that could be strung
first and last that would cover up the crimp, but haven’t had much
luck in finding one. How about an enterprising Orchid member
manufacturing such a thing? Maybe with a little design etched into
the bead? I’ll be your first customer for the sterling silver ones!
Cynthia Bach
Ivyhall College Jewelry
I can be contacted off line at cdbach@earthlink.net
Dear Audie, The thickest wire I have used is the Beadalon Tiger Tail
which is .51mm/.020" thick. It is plenty strong and I have no
trouble knotting it. I am wondering - how do you crimp the bead
tips? The only way I can think of is by folding the cup part in half?
And then squeezing the pointed sides of the folded cup to make a
cube shape? How does it look?
I just heard about Soft Flex for the first time and I was wondering
how it compares to Beadalon. A friend spoke to someone that said
Beadalon is “cheap quality.” Is Soft Flex a cable style also? I’d
be interested to hear more.
Dear Jill: Let me clarify two things: first of all, I only use
Soft-Flex wire as I think it’s better quality; secondly, I use the
"clam-shell" tips; spread open the clam shell; insert the crimp bead
’n crimp; cut off remaining wire; apply a dab of glue to the clam
cup 'n close. I’ve had good luck w/ this method.
I use both Beadalon and Soft Flex and for the most part, prefer
Beadalon. It comes in 7, 19 and 49 stainless steel strands, and while
a little less expensive, is definitely not ‘cheap quality.’
Re crimps, I’ve begun using 2 mm seamless sterling beads as crimps,
or 3mm silver plate rounds on less expensive pieces. They crimp
easier, seem to hold better without damaging the ‘wire’ and look a
lot better. Need to use a crimping pliers, of course.
Mornin: I haven’t thot 'bout using the seamless ss beads as crimps
but will give it a shot. Ending beaded pieces seems to be an area
that could make or break one’s finished piece. I just saw in Bead
’n Button where they use a small bead inside the clam shell, then
tie it at the end of the bead before closing the clam shell. There
are many different techniques to try. Susan uses the method I’m now
using 'n so far no problems. I love the magnetic loks 'n will be
using more. I buy the ss 'n 14kgf. They sell well, are very strong
’n look nice. This Orchid site is great 'n thx for recommending it.
Sept 11th is around the corner. I pray we’ll be safe all over the
world… Celebrate each 'n every
day…
STILL WORKIN ON MY TABLE COVERS…
I have been watching the ideas on hiding knots at the ends when
stringing beads and thought I would contribute my method. I use, or
make, an eye pin to end the string at each end. Tie a know in the
string and then heat, or glue, the know to make certain that it will
hold permanently. I use a silver or gold bead of the size that is
needed to match with the strung beads. Then using my round nose
pliers I enlarge one hold in the bead so that it will fit over the
knot at the end. This hides the knot and leaves the eye pin
sticking out so that I can attach it to the clasp. Hope this helps
some of you. Lewis F. Elrod, CFE Silver Fox Gallery
