[Jewelry making - Article 00136] - Re: [Orchid] Back setting stones

[Dave Sebaste]

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    Hi Karen, I'd be glad to!  :)  The flat cabs are hard to find if you
    can't cut them yourself, but go to enough gem shows and they'll
    eventually turn up! 

    Really the same concept as the commercial design, in that the back
    is open and there are tabs (wide prongs) bent down to hold the stone
    in. These tabs are extensions of the bezel... literally. 

    Its all in laying out in sheet to make the bezel. I normally use
    fine silver bezel wire, but this adapted reverse bezel cup warrants
    laying it out in sterling sheet. Measure for stone depth and bezel
    length. Lay that line out along the edge of the sheet using dividers.
    Then add another 3-4 mm for the tabs and layout that line. Using a
    square, scribe vertical lines from the top line to the bottom to
    define the tabs, and saw the bezel and tabs out in one piece. 

    Form into a circlet and solder with hard solder. Sand flat the edge
    without the tabs, form to the stone and solder that down to sheet
    with medium solder. Trim off excess sheet, file, sand, etc. 

    Create your design and pierce, in reverse, from the inside. File and
    refine the piercing. Polish, and set the stone from behind by bending
    the tabs. 

    Not especially sophisticated, but effective! 

    Hope this helps, 

Dave
Dave Sebaste
Sebaste Studio and
Carolina Artisans' Gallery
Charlotte, NC (USA)
dave AT sebaste.com 
http://www.CarolinaArtisans.com 

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