[Jewelry making - Article 00011] - Re: [Orchid] Ring Design Help

[DAVID KEELING]

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    Hello Steve, and Orchidians, I have had a peek at the ring that you
    have designed for your pending engagement. Congratulations, in
    advance, for this wonderful turning point in your life.     I am
    unclear about the term "tension setting", with respect to your
    description of your design. My interpretation of your rendering is
    that the diamond is 3/4 bezel set, and that the garnets are channel
    set, but that the ring has structural continuity under the diamond,
    (I hope that this is your intention) and you have accepted that the
    garnets will be an ongoing maintenance thing. ( Which I should
    explain.)                 

    Garnets are not tough enough to take the abuses of daily wear for
    life, especially when channel set in a structurally unsound area of
    a ringmount. People shrink and grow in size, and engagement
    ring/wedding band designs require consideration of this reality. The
    flex created by a rise or fall of even one half size often will
    result in the crush, or loosening/loss of just about any stone which
    is channel set in what I'll refer to as a "warp zone", or an area
    which is less than ideal in its structural integrity. If you are
    willing to undertake the repairs yourself, all is fine. If your
    expectations are that the ring should be service-free for decades,
    (beyond occasional sizing) some modifications will be necessary to
    avoid angst and regret. 

    Avoid "tension setting".  Even 12, 000 p.s.i. heat-treated alloy
    mounts are designed to get the pieces sold, but servicing them can
    be both expensive and complicated. Whether you decide on platinum
    (recommended),white gold (my personal choice),or titanium, you will
    be bound by the limitations of those who will provide the trade
    services for you. 

    Carving the wax model yourself will be a good experience, but how
    much experience do you have with  modelmaking? This is not clear in
    your post. Is your prime objective the saving of money, by
    attempting to complete this part of the project alone? If you carve
    the model, you will save......????  .......Virtually nothing.  After
    it has been completed to your satisfaction , and rejected by the
    firm that you consult with a couple of times, you will have spent
    considerable amounts of money on fuel for your car, time spent away
    from work,  and investment in time, material, and tools. Are you
    working toward developing a serious hobby or career in jewellery? If
    so, good idea. If you are a do-it-yourselfer and this is a
    one-timer, forget about the money, and have some fun! Don't forget,
    though.....the work is not "almost complete" when the model is
    finished. There is much yet to do, and and these professional
    services don't come cheap. How much can you expect to spend? This
    depends on many factors.  Do your homework here, on Orchid, to find
    someone close to your geographical location who would be willing to
    help you out along the way. You should not, in any case, expect to
    receive wholesale pricing for what you are asking companies to do
    for you, as it doesn't sound like you are even remotely involved in
    the trade. 

    Hope this clarifies things for you. Congratulations, and good luck! 

David

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