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| Re: [Orchid] Exotic alloys | ||
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From: Peter W . Rowe Date: Fri May 31 23:39:44 2002 |
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========[ Invite a Friend - http://www.ganoksin.com/invite.htm ]======== > If there are no commercial sources, does anyone know where I > can find instructions for making this alloy? Remember I am new to > alloying metal. Without special equipment (induction or electric melt furnace able to pull a vacuum on the metal or shield it with inert gas), you can't practially make purple gold. It's an 18K alloy of gold and aluminum. Melting it in the presence of oxygen, even traces, destroys the aluminum, and you get a lump of very porous and useless scrap for the refining bin. Remember too, that this alloy behaves more like a lapidary material once you made it. It's hard and very brittle, more like glass than metal. You can't work it other than grinding it to shape and polishing it, and soldering to it (use a good active, probably fluoride flux) It's properly called an "intermetallic", not actually an alloy, as it doesn't have the normal crystal structure associated with our normal jewelry metals. But it is a lovely violet/purple color. Blue golds I'm aware of are actually a steel grey color as their actual metal color. The blue is a surface oxide, or patina, not the actual color of the alloy. I don't know the formula. All modern references to it I've seen treat the alloy, and the coloring process for it, as proprietary trade secrets of the producers. Older books tell of a gold/iron alloy, in several karat qualities, referred to as blue gold. The color is darker grey than white golds, and the references I've seen were to such alloys as used in multicolored victorian goldwork. I'd assume that they call this blue in the same way they call a high silver/gold, or silver/cadmium/gold, alloy, green. They're still yellow, but compared to standard yellow golds, they appear more greenish. compared to standard white golds, a dark steely grey might seem more blueish, even if it isn't. And a bit of heat color on it might well be actually blue, though again it's just a surface oxide. I've never tried that, so don't know how well it works, but can attest that a torch melted sample of the gold/iron alloy (in any of several karats) produced a rather nasty cracky material usable only for small accent decorations, not for anything needing any structural strength. This may well have been due to the primative melting methods I used, though. Just a torch with a standard crucible. Hope that helps. Peter Rowe ____________________________________________________________________ T h e O r c h i d L i s t Open Electronic Forum for Jewelry Manufacturing Methods and Procedures ____________________________________________________________________ Orchid FAQ: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/orchid/faq.htm Orchid Archives: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/orchid/archive Orchid Galleries: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/orchid/gallery.htm Invite a Friend: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/invite.htm ____________________________________________________________________ Tips From The Jeweler's Bench - Article Archive ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/tip_sear.htm The Jeweler's Selected Bibliography List ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/jewelry-books Buy Orchid Jewelry: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/shop ____________________________________________________________________ -Unsubscribe: -Email: orchid-request AT ganoksin.com Body=unsubscribe subject=blank ____________________________________________________________________ |
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