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[Orchid] Light entering faceted stones  
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From: Jewelers Gallery
Date: Fri May 31 02:57:35 2002
 
     
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    Orchidians, 	In regards to the discussion we were having about  how
    to bring out the best in cab stones, there was mention about setting
    faceted stones so light can enter the pavillion (bottom) to
    supposedly  enhance the brilliance of the stone. 

    	I tried an experiment, I took a large  peridot, aquamarine, rose
    quartz, and a small diamond into a dark room, used a penlight and
    held it on the top of the stone and then behind the stone with me
    viewing it from the top. I saw little or nothing I could see as
    refraction or reflection from any of the stones when the light was
    behind the stone. 

    	I believe what I did made it pretty clear to me that the optic
    principles that I understood were indeed true. Light entering from
    the top of a stone, and if faceted to correct critical angles, light
    returns back thru the table and crown facets to the observer. Light
    entering from behind has virtually no effect. 

    	 It also makes me aware that some of the misinformation the public
    receives is coming from the people who make or sell jewelry and
    gems. Stones are being set with an open back for the purpose of
    having light enter from the back or side of the stone, and it isn't
    going to do anything to help.  It will make it easier to clean, which
    is a benefit. 

    	There has been statements about the people who buy jewelry not
    knowing enough or not caring enough to make wise choices. Based on
    some of what I read on this board, they are being supported by
    incorrect information and personal prejudice to be the way they are.
    When someone asks a question, do we tell them we don't know or do we
    make something up? Do we take the time to get educated for that next
    person? 

    	Most jewelry is sold through mass merchandisers and  salespersons 
    who are just earning a living. There is no passion for what is being
    done, it is just a money making machine. They advertise to tell the
    public what to buy. They create the desire for what they sell. The
    sales person doesn't know anything more than what is  written on the
    price tag. 

    	Being involved with jewelry, the making of it and the sales can
    bring someone into areas that are very technical, and I experience a
    lot of myth and old wives tales. There is a tremendous amount of
    information to learn and if you are self-taught, the truth for me is
    that it takes a long time to get a resonable foundation of knowledge.
    In Europe there are standards for making jewelry,  technical
    standards and design standards and titles that are earned based on
    skill and knowledge. We don't understand or value those standards.
    Appentices there just file for two years and cannot do their own
    designs. They follow a system. You have to be a part of the system to
    get a job. You have to meet an established criteria. 

    	If you are stringing beads, there is not that much technical
    information. If you are making a custom wax, casting and setting it
    and selling a natural unheated aquamarine in a ring with diamonds,
    you better know what you are doing for when that piece is appraised
    in the future, it better be what you said it is. 	 	Jewelry is probably
    the most emotional object that our society values. The symbology of
    wedding rings, whether the first marriage or the third.  Ruin your
    customers dead mothers ring, break a treasured stone,ect and you
    will be acutely aware of what it means to your customer. 

    	I have been obsessive compulsive about learning as much as I can so
    I have credibility, and after 30 years I still learn something new
    every week. I am overwhelmed at times, there is a tremendous amount
    of liability we have when we work with the public in retail. 

    	The level of knowledge we should aquire should be relational to the
    amount of responsibility, and the consequences that we would suffer
    from not knowing what we should. 

    	How can we establish a criteria for how well made a piece of
    jewelry is when we have no standard of training for goldsmiths, and
    our system of quality control seems to be  the length of time the
    customer can wear it without damage. 

    I got that out of my system! What do you think? 

Richard in Denver

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