[Jewelry making - Article 00641] - Re: [Orchid] Work on Polishing

[Dave Sebaste]

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>       (1) Can I polish the face of all jewelry that already has stones
>     set without damaging the stones and settings? For example, won't it
>     remove the coating on onyx or damage other soft stones? Could it
>     break off faceted settings? 

    No, not all! It may damage softer stones. Tread softly around stones
    that are soft and/or heat sensitive. Buffing is a mildly abrasive
    process, and the friction generates heat (at times, much of it). That
    being said, I'll also recant by saying that I do go over inlaid
    turquoise, red coral, lapis, etc, with rouge or ZAM as a polish for
    the stones. With prong settings, be especially careful not to let the
    buffer snag a prong. Always keep the buff running down the length of
    the prong, toward the tip. 

>       (2) The same person who suggested the conversion of a grinder to
>     a polisher suggested which wheels to buy, but there was the choice
>     between shellac and leather for each type. The Rio Grande
>     order-taker didn't know which I should choose and there were no
>     techs available at their end to talk to, so I got leather. Is that
>     okay? 

    I think you're talking about what the hub of the buff is made from,
    not the buffing material itself. That being the case, I don't think
    there's much difference. I even have some with wooden hubs. I always
    try to put my buffs on the same way, so they thread on in the same
    grooves. I think the leather might be more "adaptable" to being put
    on differently, as in a shop with multiple people using the buffer. 

>       (3) What can you touch a deburring wheel to? Stones or just
>     metal? I have found so little info in the books I have read, and I
>     have a work schedule that conflicts with the chance to take
>     classes. 

    Deburring wheels are generally used on metal, but there may be some
    situation where one might use it on stone... just can't think of
    one. If you were inclined to use one on stone, there's probably a
    good argument for a better solution. There are a *lot* of options out
    there for deburring wheels. I've used the traditional Cratex wheels
    for years, but at the coaxing of fellow Orchid members, have started
    using the Advantage silicone polishers from Rio. By the way, I'm
    thinking generally of flex-shaft use here, not a big buffing machine.
    I do have a big Cratex wheel I use on my bench grinder to, for
    example, sand/grind a point on my sterling olive skewers, made of
    square wire stock. 

    Last word of advice - be careful around your new buffer. They are
    very powerful, so be respectful. Make sure you've got a firm but
    gentle grip on your piece. If the buffer wants to snatch it out of
    your hands, let it go. Better to have to rework a piece than wait for
    a gouge in your finger, or a broken finger to heal. If you haven't
    already, you should look into a hood and dust collection system.
    These things create a wicked amount of dust and debris... especially
    when you're breaking in new buffs. 

All the best,
Dave
Dave Sebaste
Sebaste Studio and
Carolina Artisans' Gallery
Charlotte, NC (USA)
dave AT sebaste.com 
http://www.CarolinaArtisans.com 

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