[Jewelry making - Article 00119] - [Orchid] 14kt bezels

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    Regarding 14kt bezels, yes 14kt is more difficult. It requires
    technique, skill,and a little more patience.  There is a lot of opal
    jewelry, including doublets, that have 14 kt bezels, and they are
    hammer set.	 	

    If you are fabricating, make the bezel to fit the stone as closely as
    possible, the stone should be snug but not have to stuggle. After
    soldering the bezel to the base, if it is too snug you can remove
    some material from the inside, be careful to not get the stone stuck
    while fitting it.  Use a burr and make a concave from the middle of
    the inside of the bezel to just below the edge. Don't remove any
    material from the edge. You can shape or thin the outside if need be.
    You will have to be careful to not go through the side, from the
    inside or outside. 

    When you go to set the stone, hopefully we know it needs to be
    annealed at this point, the piece of jewelry must be in something to
    hold it where the piece does not move, a vise is best, engravers
    block can be used, but you must push against the opposing side with
    as much pressure as you are putting on the side where you are moving
    metal so the metal does not develop its springiness. In the least
    amount of moving the metal, go around the stone and make sure all
    sides are up against the edge of the stone. Then at a 45 degree
    angle, push  the metal against the stone so it touches the stone at
    12, 6, 3 and 9 centering it, then all other edges. You must use the
    effort required to do this in one or two pushes. The next thing you
    want to do is go pretty much straight down, use a burnisher at a
    very sight angle from horizontal, tip up. 

    If you cast a piece, you can basically do the same thing. Within
    reason, snug fit, and as long as you concave the inside, the top will
    move over to the stone. Pushing down can move the center of the bezel
    away from the stone, but the edge is against it. Polish carefully,
    don't remove metal from the bezel at this point. 

    Hope this helps someone out there. Anyone else with a tip that works
    for them? 


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