[Jewelry making - Article 00037] - Re: [Orchid] Springy 14k bezels

[Don Rogers]

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>       Does anyone know why 18k would be harder than 14k, or is this
>     just an error? I suppose I should direct this question to H&S. Any
>     tips for getting 14k bezels to submit to my will would be greatly
>     appreciated! 

    Dave, I do a lot of bezel setting of opal in gold and have gone
    exclusively to 18K bezel wire.  A point you might consider is to use
    a thicker wire, around 22 or 20 Gage, even up to 18Ga for big
    pieces, and then file the top off at 45 degrees to a knife edge. 
    That gives you a stouter wire that is less prone to spring and lets
    you just push over the top of the wire onto the stone.  A tight fit
    to start with is very important, as well as the height of the wire. 
    You are just working with just the top 1 mm of the wire, not all the
    way to the base plate. 

    One other point too, if you are using white gold. especially the
    nickel white, the higher the Kt, the harder it will be as it needs a
    much higher nickel content to keep it white.   The paladium white is
    much easier to work with. It solders better also with almost no fire
    scale. 

Don Rogers

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