[Jewelry making - Article 00029] - Re: [Orchid] Springy 14k bezels

[Daniel R. Spirer]

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    Dave, Regardless of the Vickers hardness, I think you will find 18k
    bezels (especially if they are made from something like Hoover and
    Strong's 18k royal) a lot easier to set.  That being said, 22k gold
    is still what we prefer to use for bezels as 1) the setting problems
    you discuss never crop up, 2) the richer color is almost always nicer
    against the color of the stones and 3) it adds an element of value to
    the piece that does not crop up in most commercially made pieces.  I
    think that you will find that if only the bezel on the piece is 22k
    gold that you will not add a significantly higher amount of cost to
    the piece.  Incidentally the best 22k gold we have found for fusing
    (granulating) is being sold by Allcraft in New York.  The additional
    advantage of using a fusible 22k for a bezel is that you can
    eliminate the seam. 

Daniel R. Spirer, GG
Spirer Somes Jewelers
1794 Massachusetts Ave
Cambridge, MA 02140
617-491-6000
spirersomes AT earthlink.net
www.spirersomes.com

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