[Jewelry making - Article 00014] - [Orchid] Springy 14k bezels

[Dave Sebaste]

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    Hi Folks, In the last year or two, I've been doing a lot more gold
    work, and less silver. Aside from the cost and intimidation factor,
    the transition has been relatively easy. One problem continues to
    cause trouble, and I wondered what suggestions or tips the group
    might have. 

    My 14k gold bezels are springy, and I'm having a difficult time
    getting them to rest snugly against the stone. I press the bezel to
    the stone, and springs back away. I've used bezel pushers,
    burnishers, even a hammer handpiece (when the stone allows). I
    fabricated the bezel myself, and often solder to a back plate, so my
    thinking is the bezel should be well annealed. 

    I know high karat golds are more ductile, so I thought maybe I
    should do my bezels in 18k. Much to my surprise, checking the data in
    the newly arrived Hoover & Strong catalog, 18k yellow has a *higher*
    Vickers hardness than 14k (155 for 18k; 140 for 14k)! 22k drops to HV
    60. I'd hate to have to go to the expense of 22k bezels, but if
    that's the answer.... 

    Does anyone know why 18k would be harder than 14k, or is this just
    an error? I suppose I should direct this question to H&S. Any tips
    for getting 14k bezels to submit to my will would be greatly
    appreciated! 

All the best,
Dave
Dave Sebaste
Sebaste Studio and
Carolina Artisans' Gallery
Charlotte, NC (USA)
dave AT sebaste.com
http://www.CarolinaArtisans.com

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