[Jewelry making - Article 00219] - [Orchid] alternative setting method

[Phil Walker]

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    Some advice has been given on the rubover or gypsy stone setting
    method on a flat or domed area I would like to offer a couple of
    different methods I recommend. Instead of burring a hole for a stone
    in a flat plate then using a hammer handpiece to move metal around
    the edge of the stone which is a method I find to be more time
    intensive and can affect the smoothness of the metal . Take a burr
    slightly larger than the stone and take the sharpness off the
    cutting  blades with a bit of fine carborundum or silicon carbide
    paper (this will take a little trial and error to get right) . The
    burr being a bit blunt and now a bit smaller than it was when sharp 
    will force a bit of metal to raise up around the outside of the
    stone hole which once the stone has been placed in at a height with
    the table just below surface of metal can be burnished or pressed
    down onto edge of stone. It is  important for the stone to be a
    tight fit as it goes in. Then instead of using a flat graver to
    bright cut around the edge take about a number 8 (about 1mm wide)
    half round graver properly sharpened and polished and use it to
    burnish the metal further onto the edge of stone . Apply it at about
    a 60 to 70 degree angle to metal with tip almost touching stone (be
    careful with soft stones) and while pushing down on edge of metal
    rotate the piece and graver at same time in opposite directions .If
    you are right handed turn piece anti-clockwise and graver clockwise.
    All the while keeping the graver in line with the radius or keeping
    it pointed towards the centre of stone. This enables you to get a
    nice smooth curved finish as well as tightening the stone . No need
    to bright cut if your graver has been sharpened and polished well. I
    also use this method on other types of rubover or bezel setting, it
    ensures no gaps between stone and metal . I find both these methods
    to be a lot better when working with fragile stones like emeralds as
    a hammer handpiece can make a piece vibrate a lot and it is possible
    to break a stone before you even get near it. If you do have to use
    a hammer handpiece and the stone is rattling around a bit before you
    get it tight rub a tiny little bit of  bees wax around in between
    stone and metal this will keep it still.  The blunt burr trick can
    be a bit tricky to get right at first so I suggest you test it out
    on some scrap first. the blades on the burr need to be quite rounded
    so they work like little burnishes instead of cutting. Pre-burr the
    hole a little first with a sharp burr about .5 to .6 mm smaller than
    hole required. Hope you have understood this. That's all for now. Any
    questions ? 
 

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