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| Re: [Orchid] Sandlasting resists question | ||
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From: myredcar Date: Sun Mar 03 02:26:11 2002 |
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========[ Invite a Friend - http://www.ganoksin.com/invite.htm ]======== Aloha Everyone, There are several methods to etching, and then there is faux etching. One can etch almost anything with the correct tools. Most CARVED, etching that has depth is done by using sandblast grit (there are various sizes) and an air compressor. When etching glass for a 3D effect, a skilled hand is needed not to bore a hole through the glass due the strength of the pressurized grit being pumped from the nozzle. This type of etching normally is done in a confined box, for the grit flies everywhere while working, and protective gear and environment is needed. The other types of etching are done with Armour Etching Cream or Armour Etching Liquid. Extreme caution must be used with any process. Needed are heavy gloves, good ventilation, good lighting, a face mask, EYE PROTECTION, and your design. When we etch, we use a thick, self adhesive mylar film (otherwise known as contact paper) to cover the protected, surrounding areas while the acid is being applied by brush. The largest area we have etched is a 4'x8' design on two interior, glass sliding doors. From this experience we have learned quite a bit. Some people use colored mylar to see what areas are being etched, our company uses clear mylar. 1-If working inside, and your glass is upright, you must run mylar over the bottom of the glass, starting from the floor upwards: reason? All acid must be washed off with water and either a soft brush or sponge...a brush works better. 2-Protecting your surface from the ground up means that when you rinse, no acid water will leak under the mylar, streaking the surface you are working on, and ruining your surface. 3-This type of project requires you must protect the floor, so you will need about four to five inches of newspaper to absorb the acid water. Thus, you must place plastic bags, taped together under the newspaper, and starting about 5 inches under the lowest placed mylar sheet. Be aware, once water hits the paper you are looking at about 50 pounds, easily, to pick up and dispose. 4-The heaver/thicker the mylar or coating the better the etching process. 5-Use hospital x-ray film for your design. Transfer your design to the x-ray film. For our 4'x8' project, the x-ray sheets were taped together to make a large template but the design was drawn onto it, filled in with black marsh pen ink, taped on the other side of the glass that will not be etched, then place the mylar on the side to be acid etched. 6-The design is colored black so once you cut and lift off the clear mylar, one knows exactly the area that will need the acid to apply to, otherwise, cutting a clear mylar, with a pattern, one may become confused in the etching process; having the black design signifies the exact place the acid will be applied and where the mylar is being removed to apply the etching cream. 7-The acid cream never should be applied to a dirty surface. It is said that a good window cleaner should be used prior to etching because mylar leaves a sticky residue. I have found that plain, white vinegar works better at cleaning the surface prior to etching, leaving a better product in the end. 8-The larger the design, the greater the brush strokes shows (this why many books state of have intricate patterns to avoid the brush strokes showing). We have learned that using a smaller brush, adding more cream over the acid cream we already applied to the surface being etched works best. The various books state once the acid is applied, leave on for 5 minutes, then rinse. WE HAVE FOUND THIS TO BE INACCURATE. A smaller, soft brush, using more cream, and working the cream over the unprotected glass, produces a better etched product in the end. For our experience, we left the acid on for about 20 minutes. The end result is better. 9-Delphi Glass company sells this product, ARMOUR ETCHING CREAM in different size bottles. Our 4'x8' pattern for two full size sliding glass doors, used 8 bottles of the 17oz. cream. 10-If the cream looks brown, don't use it, return it. Furthermore, you must be quick to remove any circular globs that are applied to the surface for these tiny little clumps leave a pitted, circular look in the end product. 11-Amour Etching Liquid is normally used for a reversed etching style. You cover with your pattern the area you want smooth and untouched, leave the rest unprotected, and bathe it in the acid liquid. Only the protected patterned area retains its normal appearance and the balance of the surface has a frosted look. 12-It is imperative to be safe while using this product. Long sleeve shirt, thick gloves, good ventilation, protective eye wear, and good products. Should the cream hit you, wash it off immediately. Since it is an acid, it definitely burns, we know from first hand experience. 13-Our 4'x8' design took much planning for if you keep your sliding glass doors open, the patterns should match. We used identical patterns so there would not be a conflict in images when the doors are opened. Now when the doors are opened (one in front of the other) the design looks more 3D. When closed, the pattern is identical for both doors but many people are not aware of the duplication because it is a continuous Hawaiian leaf pattern. 14-You may purchase pre-made faux etching patterns that can just be placed on a surface and the end results look like the pattern was etched on by cream or liquid, until you rub your hand over the surface and feel the raised image, signifying that the etched image is a sticker. 15-There is a liquid resist that can be purchased to apply over the surface not to be etched that will protect the surrounding areas. Sandblasters use it for etching glass. I should say through carving glass or other surfaces, from the grit and high compressed air through a nozzle. 80 pounds of pressure, and rough grit, can bore a hole right through the surface if one is not careful. 16-For smaller designs, I have used Blue Painters tape, taped the entire surface, then placed my pattern over the top, and used an exacto blade to cut the paper pattern and tape off, leaving the rest of the tape on, cleaning the surface with white vinegar, then applying the cream, always using a soft brush and moving the cream in different directions, even though the directions say not to, I do because the end result is much better. As a side note, check the yellow pages for sandblasting or stained glass stores in your area. Normally they carry the resist you are looking for. Here in Hawaii, if you know how to etch using a sandblaster, one may rent a booth for the day to do their work in, instead of spending a large chunk of change buying the equipment for actual sandblasting an etched design. Sandblasting is more for carving the surface giving it a dimension by shadowing and carving deeper, which gives the 3D image as a result in the end. For more information about etching or stained glass information this company can assist any one: Delphi Glass at www.delphiglass.com and check out their web site. Currently on sale is Dichroic Glass, Beveled Glass, and other things: CBS DICHROIC SURPRISE PACK What an incredible value - you can save between 25% and 35%! This surprise pack contains a random mixture of colors, but be assured you'll get some of the most sought after colors, as well as a textured piece (or maybe even two!). Pack contains six pieces of the great quality dichroic glass made by Coatings by Sandberg. Each piece is at least 4 inch square. If it were sold separately this pack would have a MINIMUM value of $95.70. Act now to get this amazing savings on the dichroic glass that fusers love! (Item: 64002 Sale:$66.00) More INFO... Sorry to take up so much of your time, but since this has been an Orchid discussion for the past week or so, perhaps this will help. If a person sandblasts metal, the end result should look like a Pave surface. Pick your resist well, for even resists have their limits. If uncertain, ask a professional glass company like Delphi or a similar company. Take care every one. I wish all of you a Healthy, Wealthy, and Prosperous 2002. Barbara in Hawaii If you would like more information, write me off line at: myredcar AT lava.net ____________________________________________________________________ T h e O r c h i d L i s t Open Electronic Forum for Jewelry Manufacturing Methods and Procedures ____________________________________________________________________ Orchid FAQ: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/orchid/faq.htm Orchid Archives: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/orchid/archive Orchid Galleries: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/orchid/gallery.htm Invite a Friend: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/invite.htm ____________________________________________________________________ Tips From The Jeweler's Bench - Article Archive ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/tip_sear.htm The Jeweler's Selected Bibliography List ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/jewelry-books Buy Orchid Jewelry: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/shop ____________________________________________________________________ -Unsubscribe: -Email: orchid-request AT ganoksin.com Body=unsubscribe subject=blank ____________________________________________________________________ |
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