[Jewelry making - Article 00076] - Re: [Orchid] Etching detailed patterns

[mmiron]

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    I have used the photocopy / iron-on process with some success, BUT
    the ironing-on is problematic. Since copier and laser printer toner
    are very fine-grained, excellent detail is possible. [Fine to me may
    be coarse to you!  I was etching metal panels for kaleidoscope
    bodies, 3" X 10" panels.] However, I was never able to achieve a 100%
    transfer of pattern off of the carrier material - there would be
    "dropouts" or gaps in the transferred toner. I was using this to
    create fields of texture or "busy" patterns and, I suspect, on larger
    pieces than many of you might work with; on smaller pieces you might
    be able to invest the time to go back and touch-up any missing resist
    that didn't transfer from the carrier. 

    I think there are many variables using this material, that I haven't
    had time or resources to quantify - such as the temperature on the
    fixing rollers in the copy machine. The material I used was bought at
    an electronics store, was clear plastic sheets about  $7 US for 5  
    8.5 X 11 sheets. It was supposed to work in a computer's laser
    printer but my attempt yielded a sheet that was a little rumpled and
    heat-distorted. Go to a copy store if at all possible and you may
    have to show them the packaging label before they will risk feeding
    the sheets through their machines... If you are working with text you
    will of course need to print it from your computer backwards, and
    take that to the copy store, so that text reads correctly after you
    turn the sheet over and iron it on. 

    Caveat: It is difficult to iron-on over irregular surfaces - flat
    surface works best. I always cleaned the metal well before applying
    pattern. It might help to lightly etch, blast or otherwise roughen a
    surface to help pattern adhere - I never experimented with this. For
    my purposes the dropouts contributed to the character of the textures
    I was using. 

    Another caveat:  I was working only with brass and copper. The
    ironed-on toner held up as well as other resists against the ferric
    chloride "printed circuit" etchant but I did not work with solutions
    used to etch other metals.  Generally I have found it helpful to heat
    the solution [ I put my etching container on an electric hotplate.]
    and also bubble-aerate or pump-circulate the etchant during the
    process to achieve a consistent depth of etch across larger pieces;
    this also reduces time in the solution and extended time can lead to
    erosion of the resist and destruction of the pattern. 

    Hope this helps, good luck!      michael  

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