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[Orchid] Stone Rings with Metal Liners
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Thom Lane Wednesday, July 02, 1997
   
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Hello to Orchid,

    I am Thom Lane, a lapidary who enjoys the Orchid dialogue and
    adds an occaisonal two bits worth.  I am responding to the
    discussion of stone inlays in rings.  I do this regularly and it
    is not too difficult as long as the sides of the opening go
    straight down from the top of the stone.  This is different than
    having them go straight in to the center of the ring!  The
    opening should have all its sides parallel to each other.  If
    the stone goes way around the ring then the ends can go toward
    the center of the ring.  The stone has a rounded cutout that goes
    over the finger and then the ends are cut on a faceting machine
    until they fill the opening.  After gluing with HXTAL (normal
    epoxy lasts ten years and is bogus for jewelry) I grind the
    excess stone flush with the metal.

    More challenging is the stone ring with a metal liner.  Stone
    arches are strong when challenged with downward pressure but a
    stone ring can easily be broken with pressure forcing from the
    center outward.  I think the only reliable way to make a ring
    like this would be to HXTAL the stone ring over a band with one
    side in place, leaving enough of the center sleeve sticking out
    to slide the other side, in the form of a washer, alongside the
    stone.  I know there are ways to do this flaring the center
    sleeve into the washer but my goldsmith returned many experiments
    with the stone invariably broken!

    I have made a few successful rings of this sort but they never
    lasted in normal use and most people who have made them give up
    because of the breakage.  The other problem is that a ring of
    this sort can never be sized.

                                    Best to you all,
                                            Thom
Thom





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