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Palladium, long
used as a luxurious jewelry metal, has recently experienced renewed interest
largely due to its purity, natural white color and affordable pricing.
Modern 950 palladium alloys containing various trace elements are superior
to the palladium ruthenium alloys previously available for use in jewelry.
The new 950 palladium alloys are:
Pure - Palladium alloys formulated for jewelry predominately contain
95% palladium with the balance being ruthenium (another noble metal from
the platinum group of metals, or PGM) and other trace elements. These
trace elements are included in various combinations to create task specific
alloys (i.e. for casting, fabricating, machining, etc.) for jewelry manufacturing
processes.
Precious - Palladium is mined in only a few regions around the world.
7 million ounces of palladium were mined last year globally, compared
to 7 million ounces of platinum and 80 million ounces of gold.
Naturally White - Palladium does not require rhodium plating to create
or keep its bright, white appearance.
Comfortably Light - Palladium is nearly half the weight of platinum,
opening up new avenues for jewelry designers focusing on white metals.
Durable and Wearable - Palladium is comparable to platinum when worn.
It is strong, durable and tests have shown it outwears white gold.
Hypoallergenic - Palladium is not likely to cause skin allergies.
Workable - 950 palladium alloys are desirably workable for jewelry design
and manufacturing procedures. They are malleable, ductile, strong and
durable and able to be worked in a variety of methods. Here are some
examples of pieces made with 950 palladium, using a variety of jewelry
manufacturing methods.
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This 950 palladium wedding band by Novell, Roselle, NJ is machine set
with 108 0.01 carat round brilliant diamonds. The central design
element features 950 palladium wires that were hand braided and formed.
The band is machined from extruded 950 palladium ring tubing, a product
of Johnson Matthey. Ring tubing is work hardened and available at
a hardness of 180 Vickers. After the ring blank is machined, each
of the elements is then hand assembled.
Photo courtesy of Novell |
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This 950 palladium band by Novell features
23 0.10 round brilliant diamonds prong set with 14-karat pink gold
trim pieces. The band is carved by machine from extruded ring tubing
and the diamonds are machine set. After, the pink gold pieces are
formed and the unit is hand assembled.
Photo courtesy of Novell |
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This pearl cross bracelet design features
unique interlocking cast 950 palladium links and a drop motif set
with round cultured pearls. It was designed and manufactured by Scott
Kay, Teaneck, NJ. The pieces are cast, hand finished and hand assembled.
Since 950 palladium alloys are nearly half the weight of platinum
alloys, this piece has a comfortable and wearable overall weight.
Photo courtesy of Scott Kay, Inc. |
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This luxurious 950 palladium charm necklace
by Scott Kay features 3 charms dangling from a hand made 950 palladium
chain. The chain is handmade from palladium wire. The charms dangle
from intricately carved palladium link pieces. The center gemstones
are bezel set on 2 of the charms demonstrating the malleability of
the material.
Photo courtesy Scott Kay, Inc. |
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Tom McLaughlin, shop manager and partner of Lennon's
Jewelers, Syracuse, NY designed and made this 950 palladium and 18-karat
yellow gold ring with a tourmaline center stone and blue diamond side
stones using CAD/CAM design and manufacturing methods. The ring was
cast, hand assembled, set and finished. The 18-karat yellow gold bezel
was soldered onto the hand finished 950 palladium casting using gold
soldering techniques. The small beads holding the blue diamonds on
the side were a part of the computer generated wax model prior to casting. |
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This pair of 950 palladium and 18-karat yellow gold with
cultured Tahitian pearls and diamond earrings were designed and made
by Tom McLaughlin. For this piece, McLaughlin combined cast pieces
and hand assembly. The bottom portion of the earrings has diamonds
set on the front and back side and swivel when worn. |
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The Mokume Gane wedding band featured here was designed and made
by James Binnion of James Binnion Metal Arts, Bellingham, WA. The process
begins by high heat bonding sheets of sterling silver and palladium
to form the layers of metal prior to shaping and forming. The palladium
in this application is the darker of the 2 alloys featured in this
ring. |
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Retail store owner, AGTA award winning designer and manufacturing
bench jeweler Brenda Warburton of Austin and Warburton in Ann Arbor,
MI shows the versatility of 950 palladium with this luxurious cast
and hand assembled bracelet. She used CAD/CAM methods to produce the
model and after casting used a laser welder to complete the assembly
for the hinge and clasp mechanism. Warburton flush set the small round
brilliant diamonds and channel/hammer set 3 emerald cut sapphires.
Palladium's bright white color provides a striking background which
reflects the best qualities of the diamonds and fancy color sapphires. |
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Lainie Mann, Mann Design
Group, Corvallis, MT
designed this piece to feature the color contrast between naturally
white palladium and yellow gold. It contains sapphire and diamond side
stones and a tourmaline center stone. |
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These cultured Mabe pearl and pink sapphire earrings were designed
by Lainie Mann, Mann
Design Group and
hand formed and fabricated using 950 palladium by Mark B. Mann. The
top portion of the earrings was cut from sheet for formed in a dapping
block. All bezel material was hand formed from wire. Palladium easy
and medium and hard solder was used to connect the hand formed pieces. |
The Process: When attempting to weld a joint with a
torch, the best result comes from using the above process. Begin with
a butt joint with beveled edges and a thin piece of 950 palladium sheet
measuring 0.12mm in thickness (A). Use a vented torch tip and with gas
and oxygen as the fuel source and heat the joint until the small piece
melts into the shank (B). The result shows a micro-pitted surface (C)
where the joint was heated. The surface distortion is removed by filing
and burnishing.

Best Method: For the best results
when sizing a ring, the use a standard butt joint and hard palladium
solder. If hard palladium solder is not available, 1300 platinum solder
will provide good results. Be sure and use platinum soldering techniques.

Palladium Jewelry Manufacturing: Frequently Asked
Questions:
Can you torch weld 950Pd shanks when sizing a ring?
Yes,
but its tricky. The main problem with welding palladium is oxygen absorption
and the result is exhibits micro-pitting at the joint. (When molten,
palladium dissolves large amounts of oxygen and will become a "homogenous
liquid" in the sense that the elemental oxygen is mixed with the
liquid palladium on an atomic level. When the metal solidifies, the oxygen
wants to change phase back into a gas, and is released from the metal
as just that, a gas. But the metal usually solidifies before all the
gas can be evolved; hence gas porosity in the form of pits. |
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