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Sanam Luang - around 5:00 am; this rare stretch of lawn before the old palace; before the morning traffic; before the office workers from Silom Road come to wait for their busses; before the tourists arrive in their shorts and cheap T-shirts; while the old Chinese people are still at their Tai-chi, and the monks are still pacing quietly on their morning rounds in the surrounding neighborhoods; perhaps, the very best time to arrive to this portrait of the greatness of the old Siam.